The Balmain creative director took inspiration from the archives to create his guest-designed Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2022 collection for the brand.
Creative director of French fashion house Balmain since 2011, it’s time for Olivier Rousteing’s to try his hand at a Jean Paul Gaultier guest appearance at Paris Haute Couture fashion week. Stepping up to the plate and helming the house’s Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2022 collection, Rousteing sourced inspiration from the brand’s most groundbreaking designs.
With Jean-Paul Gaultier’s singular design DNA interwoven throughout the latest collection, Rousteing truly manifested the artistry of the prolific “enfant terrible” of French fashion, paying homage to the legendary designer. Providing the founder with over 200 sketches in the early stages of the collaboration, there’s no denying Rousteing’s reverence for the house. “I have no words to express what happened yesterday,” he posted to social media. “I will never forget this adventure.”
Rousteing sent a modernized and modest version of Madonna’s risqué 1992 breast-baring AMFAR Gala pinstripe dress down the runway on Lara Stone, while Kim Kardashian debuted the reimagined dress from the front row alongside her mother, Kris Jenner, and daughter North West.
Quite a few runway looks mirrored that of Gaultier’s Spring/Summer 1994 collection Les Tatouages, with retro sunnies, nose ring chains, layered necklaces, an eclectic array of printed patchwork, denim, the house’s signature nautical tricot rayé stripes, and sheer tattoo motif.
With perennial house treasure troves like the cone bra immortalized by Madonna, Rousteing referenced the silhouette in fabrications like gold metallic tin and woven wicker, while embellishing the pointed busts in metal boning, swirling seams and shimmering rhinestones.
Inventive breastplates, molds of pregnant baby bumps, intricate corset lacing, kicky berets, pin cushions, heart-shaped bustiers, trompe-l’oeil techniques and more all gave a respectful nod to Gaultier’s iconic career. Including influences from Gaultier’s most memorable perfumes, Rousteing sent human decanters down the runway, resembling the brand’s Le Male and Classique eau de parfum bottles.
Tapping a new “guest creative director” for each Haute Couture collection, the retired couturier sees a new designer put their unique twist on the Paul Gaultier vision. Following the likes of Glenn Marten’s critically acclaimed collection, Rousteing expertly intertwined his Balmain influences with that of Gaultier’s staples.
The 37-year-old designer wrote on Instagram, “U have been such an inspiration [to] me forever.”
